Ampere (Amp)
A unit measuring electrical current flow. Think of it like water pressure in a pipe—higher amps mean more electricity flowing through a wire. Most home circuits are 15 or 20 amps, while major appliances like dryers need 30-50 amps.
Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI)
A safety device that detects dangerous electrical arcs (sparks) and shuts off power to prevent fires. Required by code in bedrooms, living areas, and most other rooms. AFCIs protect against fire hazards caused by damaged wires or loose connections.
Bonding
Connecting metal parts of an electrical system together to ensure they're at the same electrical potential. Critical for pools, hot tubs, and outdoor electrical to prevent shock hazards. Bonding creates a safe path for fault currents.
Circuit
A complete path for electricity to flow from the panel, through wires, to outlets or devices, and back to the panel. Each circuit is protected by a circuit breaker and serves a specific area or appliance in your home.
Circuit Breaker
A safety switch in your electrical panel that automatically trips (shuts off) when a circuit is overloaded or short-circuited. Unlike fuses, breakers can be reset by flipping the switch back on. Modern breakers also include AFCI and GFCI protection.
Conduit
A protective tube that encloses electrical wires. Metal (EMT) or plastic (PVC) conduit protects wires from damage and is required for exposed wiring in garages, basements, and outdoor installations.
Dedicated Circuit
A circuit that serves only one appliance or outlet, not shared with anything else. Required for major appliances like refrigerators, microwaves, washers, dryers, HVAC systems, and EV chargers to ensure adequate power and prevent overloads.
Electrical Panel
The main distribution point for electricity in your home, also called a breaker box or load center. Contains circuit breakers that protect individual circuits. Older homes have 100-amp panels; most modern homes have 200-amp panels.
EV Charger (Level 2)
A 240-volt charging station for electric vehicles that provides much faster charging than a standard 120V outlet. Level 2 chargers typically deliver 25-30 miles of range per hour of charging. Installation requires a dedicated 40-60 amp circuit.
Fuse Box
An older type of electrical panel that uses fuses instead of circuit breakers. When a fuse blows, it must be replaced rather than reset. Fuse boxes are typically limited to 60-100 amps and often can't meet modern power demands.
Generator (Whole-Home)
A backup power system that automatically turns on during outages to power your entire home. Permanently installed and connected to your electrical panel via a transfer switch. Runs on natural gas or propane for continuous operation.
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)
A safety device that protects against electrical shock by detecting current leakage and cutting power in milliseconds. Required in bathrooms, kitchens, garages, outdoors, and near water. GFCI outlets have TEST and RESET buttons.
Hot Wire
The wire that carries electrical current from the panel to devices—typically black or red in color. Hot wires are energized and dangerous to touch. Always turn off power at the breaker before working on electrical.
Junction Box
An enclosed box where electrical wires are connected together. All wire connections must be made inside junction boxes for safety. Boxes must remain accessible and cannot be buried in walls or covered over.
Load
The total electrical demand on a circuit or system. Load calculations determine how much power your home needs and whether your panel can handle additions like EV chargers, hot tubs, or HVAC systems.
Neutral Wire
The wire that completes the circuit by returning current to the panel—typically white in color. While not "hot," neutral wires can still carry current and should be treated carefully.
Outlet (Receptacle)
The point where you plug in devices to access electricity. Standard outlets are 120V/15A or 20A. High-power outlets for dryers, ranges, and EV chargers are 240V with various amperage ratings.
Panel Upgrade
Replacing an older, smaller electrical panel with a larger one to provide more power capacity. Common upgrades go from 100 amps to 200 amps to accommodate EV chargers, HVAC, hot tubs, and modern power demands.
Service Upgrade
Increasing the total electrical capacity coming into your home from the utility. Involves upgrading the meter, service entrance wires, and panel. Required when power demands exceed current capacity.
Short Circuit
When hot and neutral wires touch directly, creating an uncontrolled current flow. Short circuits cause breakers to trip immediately and can create fire hazards. Often caused by damaged wire insulation or faulty connections.
Sub-Panel
A smaller secondary panel fed from the main panel, used to distribute power to a specific area like a garage, workshop, or pool equipment. Sub-panels make it easier to manage circuits in large homes or outbuildings.
Surge Protector (Whole-Home)
A device installed at the electrical panel that protects your entire home from voltage spikes. Provides far more protection than plug-in power strips. Essential for protecting expensive electronics and appliances.
Transfer Switch
A device that safely switches power sources between utility power and generator power. Prevents dangerous backfeed into utility lines. Required for all standby generator installations.
Watt
A unit measuring electrical power—the rate at which electricity is used. Watts = Volts × Amps. A 100-watt light bulb uses 100 watts of power. Appliance energy ratings are given in watts or kilowatts.
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